A Special Ingredient

Cooking is really a kind of magic, a putting together that produces not only nourishment but pleasure and delight - well, some of the time anyway. But good ingredients are essential for the spell to work. Seasonality means taste so you can let one special thing be the main event.

While English asparagus is still in season now, there are lots of simple ways to enjoy it: grilled with large shavings of parmesan; wrapped in parma ham and roasted; roasted and drizzled with balsamic; served with crispy bacon on top;steamed and served with a soft boiled egg; steamed and served with a freshly made hollandaise sauce- the only one of these that is at all time consuming or difficult. You can, of course, also add it to omelettes or quiches, though I think the flavour can get lost then .

But in a risotto asparagus is sensationally itself, subtle and fresh and yummy. For years I thought of risottos as something only clever Italian type cooks or show offs could do but in fact they are easy. They are also economical and surprisingly filling. Once you know the method you don't need a recipe, just ideas for flavours. You also need to have arborio rice as one of your staples in the cupboard.

Asparagus Risotto

One bundle of asparagus - choose one that has fairly thin stalks
300g arborio rice
1/2 onion or three shallots finely chopped
1 stick of celery finely chopped - you can leave this out
1 clove garlic
1 litre chicken stock (or vegetable)  - made from water and cubes though your own from the freezer is the best. Have your stock hot in a pan with a ladle to hand. You may not need all of it.
Large glass of white wine - best not left out
Butter, olive oil, S&P
Parmesan

1. Start the risotto by slowly softening the onion and celery in olive oil and butter using a wide pan. Don't have the heat high. Everything about making a risotto should be calm and slow - so enjoy!
2. Add the crushed garlic when they are almost translucent, stir in for a few minutes.
3. Now add your rice and stir it round so that the grains get covered with the fats. If looks dry add some more oil and/or butter. You don't want it swimming but it must be moist.
4. Add your wine, turn the heat up for a few seconds and let it bubble off.
5. Now start by adding a ladleful of hot stock to the rice and using a gentle heat, stir it in until it is almost gone, then add the next one.
6. You keep on adding stock like this, stirring most of the time and not going far from the stove, for about 20 minutes or slightly less, while the rice cooks and absorbs the moisture. The classic requirement for a risotto is that it is almost soupy, not dry like a pilau or other rice dishes. But you are in charge and can get it just as you like it. Stop when the rice is soft enough to eat, though still with some bite, and most if not all of the liquid has gone.
7. When you think it is getting nearly done, put your asparagus onto steam for 5 minutes at the most - test by inserting a knife into a stalk to see if it is tender. Chop the hot spears into three.
8. Check your rice is cooked - it is supposed to be still slightly dense in the middle but it is a matter for your choice - and add the asparagus pieces, folding them in gently. Let it sit for a few seconds, then taste for S&P, add a good knob of butter and a handful of grated Parmesan.
9. Serve with a little more Parmesan as garnish.
10. This is enough for 4 people as a main course, though you might want to have salad first or after or even alongside. But I admit this week 2 of us ate three portions between us - the left over was delicious cold for lunch the next day.